Thursday, September 24, 2009

Midweek blues

Ok, so the surfs finally started to get here and has peaked and starting to slow already.
Got the okay from dad to ditch work around 4:30 and ran down to the local where i was hoping to score some decent tube time.
First get there too see around 25-30 guys all sitting around with a few decent waves coming in.
The time was now 5 and it was due to be low tide around half 6 which was about sundown.
Wasn't a very low tide, and suck rock wasn't doing it thing. but there were still some fun waves to be had.
The only problem was that every wave i paddled for so did at least 3 other people!!!
I got dropped in on once by my mate and almost met the reef, luckily i'm getting better at pulling off on rights, as i'm much better on lefts!
Then the big one came!!! I paddled out past everyone and aimed for the shoulder, with a sweeping bottom turn and a straight line, i'd realized i had aimed too high and was soon dropping a few feet over the foot step as i shot over suck up.
After landing and bouncing along the whitewas and spray i finally pulled off and started my paddle back out.
Then after chatting with my younger bother and waiting for the next set to come, which was a fair time between. These 2 nice peaky waves headed for us, now my brother turned and headed straight for the rocks so as to get a nice clean inside line, only to be absolutely abliterated due to this stand up that dropped in on him and he was to cop the next 3 waves on the head in little more than 2ft of water (haha he loved it).
So then the next wave was my turn, with my stunned girly looking on from the rocks! I've done my bottom turn, setup my line (lower this time) and aimed for suck up. To my surprise this stand up chick out of nowhere comes flying down infront of me and i'm left with nowhere to go other than back through the wave and hope to make it!

By this time it was getting dark, the crowd was thinning out and we just had food on the brain. So it was the end of another session at the local that could of potentially ended in injury. Ahh the sport we love and the dangers involved! but we're here for the fun and hopefully the long term!!

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