Midweek blues

Ok, so the surfs finally started to get here and has peaked and starting to slow already.
Got the okay from dad to ditch work around 4:30 and ran down to the local where i was hoping to score some decent tube time.
First get there too see around 25-30 guys all sitting around with a few decent waves coming in.
The time was now 5 and it was due to be low tide around half 6 which was about sundown.
Wasn't a very low tide, and suck rock wasn't doing it thing. but there were still some fun waves to be had.
The only problem was that every wave i paddled for so did at least 3 other people!!!
I got dropped in on once by my mate and almost met the reef, luckily i'm getting better at pulling off on rights, as i'm much better on lefts!
Then the big one came!!! I paddled out past everyone and aimed for the shoulder, with a sweeping bottom turn and a straight line, i'd realized i had aimed too high and was soon dropping a few feet over the foot step as i shot over suck up.
After landing and bouncing along the whitewas and spray i finally pulled off and started my paddle back out.
Then after chatting with my younger bother and waiting for the next set to come, which was a fair time between. These 2 nice peaky waves headed for us, now my brother turned and headed straight for the rocks so as to get a nice clean inside line, only to be absolutely abliterated due to this stand up that dropped in on him and he was to cop the next 3 waves on the head in little more than 2ft of water (haha he loved it).
So then the next wave was my turn, with my stunned girly looking on from the rocks! I've done my bottom turn, setup my line (lower this time) and aimed for suck up. To my surprise this stand up chick out of nowhere comes flying down infront of me and i'm left with nowhere to go other than back through the wave and hope to make it!

By this time it was getting dark, the crowd was thinning out and we just had food on the brain. So it was the end of another session at the local that could of potentially ended in injury. Ahh the sport we love and the dangers involved! but we're here for the fun and hopefully the long term!!

Sunday of hopes

Now for sunday i had quite a busy day running around town and drive my mates around going shopping! How gay! Give me the water... Anyway by 2pm i was at home and needed to get a surf in regardless, so i checked coastal watch and to my surprise there were some small waves and a sweet out look in that low tide was around 3:30pm.

So i packed the car and set off for what i though would be a nice afternoon session.
Suited up and jumped off the rocks down at the local point! I hadn't bothered to check on the depth of the tide, but i was soon about to discover the depth of water off the reef was little more than the height of my knee!

With the wind bumping up a few notches and flowing across the break it made for some sketchy lowtide barrels. Just how we like them.
Got a few decent pits and spoke with a few of the local boys of whom all commented on my 6th board for the year haha. It was a fun surf all round with mum watching from the rocks and looking on in amazement as surfer after surfer tried to take control over the reef only to get a beating they wish they hadn't received!

Now all i can do is wait for work to drop off and the swell to pick up and i'll be heading where ever i need to!

Friday to nothing

Ok, friday afternoons finished and its time to party for most, but not the 5 of us.
We're packing our cars and heading down the coast!
After a lengthy stop at a shitty macdonalds we finally arrive around sussex inlet at 11pm.
We drive down the dirt track and can hear the surf and smell the fresh seabreeze.
Upon gazing out at the stars, by which are usually covered in the city smog.
We take a minute to reflect and hope the best for the morning swell.

We head back to the cars and get ready for the long night sleeping upright.
This is what its all about!
Around 6am we arise to the sound of wind and get amped to check the surf.
To our disappointment it seems to have dropped off over night and its looking pretty dismal.

So first things first its time for food while we head down to the next reef Pipe!
On the way we stop off for a minute and get some food! Rolls and sandwiches all round!!
After our food we race off down to the car park only to find the wind has turned dead onshore. :(
So we spend the next 40minutes driving around checking a few other unknown breaks and eventually head back no the sun has come out and the wind is making up its mind.

After the short walk down the trail we are greated with a hightide, 1-2ft sweet and a fairly mellow off shore breeze, so we all suit up and rush in. Over the next few hours the swell shapes up a little and the tide comes in slightly but still not enough to give this great break its pumping shape! Disapointed to say the least we all trudged back to the car and thought about lunch.
Ohh how macdonalds becomes part of your stable diet when on the road!

Well after our feed we decided to jump back in the car and try our luck with a beach break as for now the wind was a little seedy in direction and we were sure the swell would have been ok! But too our disbelieve we were greeted with 1ft onshore slop! Not the most favourable conditions to anyone wanting to be at a beach unless ofcourse your the type that goes down to hang out in the heat!