Wednesday, September 30, 2009

Time of Tides

Unfortunately the later session of yesterday afternoon was little more than a swift paddle around the rocks, followed by 10minutes of beach slop!
So yesterday after work i raced back to the local to get some waves in!
The tide was full around 4:30 and it was now 5!
For some reason the last few days have been fairly high tides and the water around the rock and point was very high.
When we rocked off it was like bend and jump haha, never been so easy!
Anyway we sat just of the point and waited for the waves!
Was maybe 3-4 ridable and one bomb wave that actually broke infront of us in super deep water and it curled down the line, was a major disapointment to have missed :( !
So after a few close calls with the rocks we headed into the beach and had a few waves before dark.
Then we went up to the pool as ritual and sprashed about for a while.
Was the excercise i needed and was fun so not too bad despite the lack of action!

Tuesday, September 29, 2009

Midweek over crowd

Just got back into work from an early morning surf yewww!!!
Nothing feels more refreshing!
Anyway back to todays tales, woke up around 6am. Jumped in the car and straight to the local for what i was hoping would be a nice relaxing session. Unfortunately to my surprise so did about another 30 or so people all out the point, not including the crowds down the sand banks on the open beach!
So back to the surf, it was forecast to be around the 3-4ft mark with the odd bigger one in the mix. However, it was more like 2-3ft so i suppose the surf is yet to arrive?! Anyhow it was high tide around 4am and the low was to be in the vincinity of half past 10!
So being that i was out from 6-8 it was rather a shame that there was just too much water ontop of the reef and it was struggling to work.
After about an hour and the single worst wave of the week, i chose to go in and catch some beachies.
To my amazement it was actually quite fun i got a few nice hollow ones and a close out or two. Never the less i was still very pleased! As i figured my time was running out i started to get myself onto my board more and arch my back trying to get as much speed as possible.
I nearly got a few perfect lips to hit, but either chickened out or it went too steep haha.
All in all a fun session!!
Would have come up a treat in pictures, but my new cameras just haven't arrived yet and i'm waiting on the call to go and pick them up!

Monday, September 28, 2009

Windy weekend

Ok, finally get some computer time in work hours, not that there was much in the way of waves over the last few days. But well go over the events anyway.
Friday afternoon was pretty fun considering! raced from work and ran down to the local.
Got out as the sun was going down and had some fun little beach close outs.
The wind was bloody howling from the north and the rip was sucking straight to the north!
Everywave was a 2second ride, being a half barrel to close out. Where ever hammering got that little extra sand down your back and in your legs hahaha.
So all in all it was a quick uneventful board but we got wet none the less!

Saturday was a bit of the same although i didn't even bother to head anywhere the winds were just too strong and i didn't have much faith in the swell holding up. Then by sunday afternoon the local was almost the flattest i have ever seen it. With extrememly strong off shore winds the swell had all but disappeared into a flat splash of ripples onto the beach. Was a sight to see! Gone were the sound of waves and the beach was empty except for people walking.
But that didn't deter me from jumping into the sea pool and swimming about for a little while not for the excercise but for the fact i have just purchased a reeflex 3/3 Mercury steamer and what better time to test it out than in a super strong wind and cold day. It passed in my books with flying colours, but it will need to withstand the wipeout test :D