Friday, October 30, 2009

Southcoast reefies

So what it was friday night and 11:30pm? Just because i was getting up at 3:40am and racing to batemansBay, where i arrived at 7:20am too see Tory and Dee with their new friend Jeff unpacking and getting ready to hit the sketcky ledge!!!

So we raced down the trail and got suited the fark up! We were keen as mustard!
So we surfed this particular spot for 2 hours before the long drive back into batemans to get some filling maccas. True meal of travellers!
Then it was back out to one of my favourate breaks just down from where we were previously!

It was here that i near had my perfect keg, the one i have so long sought to ride and the one that was to be a happy moment where nothing else mattered but me and the sea.

Once we arrived, we saw all the kids and younger guys had packed up and were all leaving, so as you'd have it we suited up and shot out! With in 15minutes the swell had already picked up and the wind was now onshore/cross which doesn't particularlly matter at this such break as the rock formation of the reef in the right swell just makes this barrel that is just purely amazing.

Anyhow after another 2hour long session it was time to head home, only since my other mate was stuck in canberra i decided to drive home via goulburn just incase he needed help!
SO 800km from waking up 4hrs sleep and 4hrs of sport i was too say the least buggered!

To Phillip island and Powlett

So the weekend before the long weekend, i ventured down swoodle and nobles way out phillip island. Works finished at 5 and i'm straight to the airport to catch my plane! Luckily i was extremely late, but my flight was super delayed due to the weather!! Phew!!!!!!!!!!!
So i get off the plane in melb some hour and a half late and proceed to meet up with stu who very kindly drove me down to his place in phillip island!

First stop PUB!!!!!
Ok so the first night was kinda messy but nothing out of the ordinary, but it made for a relaxing surf out powlett in the morning. The water was suprisingly warm to me when i was expecting the worst hahahahah.... So we had a quick session and got a few bigger close outs along the beach.
That was the highlight of day one.
Night two was you guessed it to the pub, how awesome :D! This time much messier and more drawn out which made days too lack of surf and extremely sketchy paddle from EP's to smiths beach a voyage of its own accord!

Then it was time to pack up get dry and get in the car for the hour and a half long drive back to melb to the airport and for the short flight home!
A weekend well spent with great people and like our journy of life not so much swell as wished, but thats life and we'll do it again!

The local and back again

So after a few days of small lowtide afternoon waves we were greeted with out local splashing down and only a few locals out.
Now we were only out till dark but we were all alone for the most part of an hour due to the weather! We spent almost 2hours out this session and thats to the fact it was getting darker later each night it was quite refreshing! We spent close to half our time paddling between the banks and trying to find which waves were lasting the longest.

I must have gotten about 2 litres of water up my nose from trying to hold my line while the sand banks were making shaddy brown waves. Not the most pleasant of feelings through your wetty when it has been pumped with sand hahaha, but thats surfing and we love it!

Sorry i can't upload pics at the moment, but i will publish them in due course! just blogspot isn't uploading :'(

Tuesday, October 27, 2009

No mans land

So we headed off down no mans after work, and we were pleasantly surprised to be greated with perfect offshore winds and the lagoon and longy was open aswell.

As we drove along the main road and glimpsed a peak at what would be one of the most memmorable surfs of all time. I was on the search for the perfectkeg!! Although the surf was only tiny it wasn't impossible to get perfect clean left hand barrels...,mmmmm my favourate!

So for this entry i'm going too post pics of the same spot over the 3-4 afternoons i was out with my brother and we had more than enough fun. Including the keg i got that lasted what felt like forever (was probably a full 4seconds hahaha) anyhow enough from me its time too see the pictures and let them show you the real story.

Wednesday, September 30, 2009

Time of Tides

Unfortunately the later session of yesterday afternoon was little more than a swift paddle around the rocks, followed by 10minutes of beach slop!
So yesterday after work i raced back to the local to get some waves in!
The tide was full around 4:30 and it was now 5!
For some reason the last few days have been fairly high tides and the water around the rock and point was very high.
When we rocked off it was like bend and jump haha, never been so easy!
Anyway we sat just of the point and waited for the waves!
Was maybe 3-4 ridable and one bomb wave that actually broke infront of us in super deep water and it curled down the line, was a major disapointment to have missed :( !
So after a few close calls with the rocks we headed into the beach and had a few waves before dark.
Then we went up to the pool as ritual and sprashed about for a while.
Was the excercise i needed and was fun so not too bad despite the lack of action!

Tuesday, September 29, 2009

Midweek over crowd

Just got back into work from an early morning surf yewww!!!
Nothing feels more refreshing!
Anyway back to todays tales, woke up around 6am. Jumped in the car and straight to the local for what i was hoping would be a nice relaxing session. Unfortunately to my surprise so did about another 30 or so people all out the point, not including the crowds down the sand banks on the open beach!
So back to the surf, it was forecast to be around the 3-4ft mark with the odd bigger one in the mix. However, it was more like 2-3ft so i suppose the surf is yet to arrive?! Anyhow it was high tide around 4am and the low was to be in the vincinity of half past 10!
So being that i was out from 6-8 it was rather a shame that there was just too much water ontop of the reef and it was struggling to work.
After about an hour and the single worst wave of the week, i chose to go in and catch some beachies.
To my amazement it was actually quite fun i got a few nice hollow ones and a close out or two. Never the less i was still very pleased! As i figured my time was running out i started to get myself onto my board more and arch my back trying to get as much speed as possible.
I nearly got a few perfect lips to hit, but either chickened out or it went too steep haha.
All in all a fun session!!
Would have come up a treat in pictures, but my new cameras just haven't arrived yet and i'm waiting on the call to go and pick them up!

Monday, September 28, 2009

Windy weekend

Ok, finally get some computer time in work hours, not that there was much in the way of waves over the last few days. But well go over the events anyway.
Friday afternoon was pretty fun considering! raced from work and ran down to the local.
Got out as the sun was going down and had some fun little beach close outs.
The wind was bloody howling from the north and the rip was sucking straight to the north!
Everywave was a 2second ride, being a half barrel to close out. Where ever hammering got that little extra sand down your back and in your legs hahaha.
So all in all it was a quick uneventful board but we got wet none the less!

Saturday was a bit of the same although i didn't even bother to head anywhere the winds were just too strong and i didn't have much faith in the swell holding up. Then by sunday afternoon the local was almost the flattest i have ever seen it. With extrememly strong off shore winds the swell had all but disappeared into a flat splash of ripples onto the beach. Was a sight to see! Gone were the sound of waves and the beach was empty except for people walking.
But that didn't deter me from jumping into the sea pool and swimming about for a little while not for the excercise but for the fact i have just purchased a reeflex 3/3 Mercury steamer and what better time to test it out than in a super strong wind and cold day. It passed in my books with flying colours, but it will need to withstand the wipeout test :D

Thursday, September 24, 2009

Midweek blues

Ok, so the surfs finally started to get here and has peaked and starting to slow already.
Got the okay from dad to ditch work around 4:30 and ran down to the local where i was hoping to score some decent tube time.
First get there too see around 25-30 guys all sitting around with a few decent waves coming in.
The time was now 5 and it was due to be low tide around half 6 which was about sundown.
Wasn't a very low tide, and suck rock wasn't doing it thing. but there were still some fun waves to be had.
The only problem was that every wave i paddled for so did at least 3 other people!!!
I got dropped in on once by my mate and almost met the reef, luckily i'm getting better at pulling off on rights, as i'm much better on lefts!
Then the big one came!!! I paddled out past everyone and aimed for the shoulder, with a sweeping bottom turn and a straight line, i'd realized i had aimed too high and was soon dropping a few feet over the foot step as i shot over suck up.
After landing and bouncing along the whitewas and spray i finally pulled off and started my paddle back out.
Then after chatting with my younger bother and waiting for the next set to come, which was a fair time between. These 2 nice peaky waves headed for us, now my brother turned and headed straight for the rocks so as to get a nice clean inside line, only to be absolutely abliterated due to this stand up that dropped in on him and he was to cop the next 3 waves on the head in little more than 2ft of water (haha he loved it).
So then the next wave was my turn, with my stunned girly looking on from the rocks! I've done my bottom turn, setup my line (lower this time) and aimed for suck up. To my surprise this stand up chick out of nowhere comes flying down infront of me and i'm left with nowhere to go other than back through the wave and hope to make it!

By this time it was getting dark, the crowd was thinning out and we just had food on the brain. So it was the end of another session at the local that could of potentially ended in injury. Ahh the sport we love and the dangers involved! but we're here for the fun and hopefully the long term!!

Monday, September 21, 2009

Sunday of hopes

Now for sunday i had quite a busy day running around town and drive my mates around going shopping! How gay! Give me the water... Anyway by 2pm i was at home and needed to get a surf in regardless, so i checked coastal watch and to my surprise there were some small waves and a sweet out look in that low tide was around 3:30pm.

So i packed the car and set off for what i though would be a nice afternoon session.
Suited up and jumped off the rocks down at the local point! I hadn't bothered to check on the depth of the tide, but i was soon about to discover the depth of water off the reef was little more than the height of my knee!

With the wind bumping up a few notches and flowing across the break it made for some sketchy lowtide barrels. Just how we like them.
Got a few decent pits and spoke with a few of the local boys of whom all commented on my 6th board for the year haha. It was a fun surf all round with mum watching from the rocks and looking on in amazement as surfer after surfer tried to take control over the reef only to get a beating they wish they hadn't received!

Now all i can do is wait for work to drop off and the swell to pick up and i'll be heading where ever i need to!

Friday to nothing
















Ok, friday afternoons finished and its time to party for most, but not the 5 of us.
We're packing our cars and heading down the coast!
After a lengthy stop at a shitty macdonalds we finally arrive around sussex inlet at 11pm.
We drive down the dirt track and can hear the surf and smell the fresh seabreeze.
Upon gazing out at the stars, by which are usually covered in the city smog.
We take a minute to reflect and hope the best for the morning swell.

We head back to the cars and get ready for the long night sleeping upright.
This is what its all about!
Around 6am we arise to the sound of wind and get amped to check the surf.
To our disappointment it seems to have dropped off over night and its looking pretty dismal.

So first things first its time for food while we head down to the next reef Pipe!
On the way we stop off for a minute and get some food! Rolls and sandwiches all round!!
After our food we race off down to the car park only to find the wind has turned dead onshore. :(
So we spend the next 40minutes driving around checking a few other unknown breaks and eventually head back no the sun has come out and the wind is making up its mind.

After the short walk down the trail we are greated with a hightide, 1-2ft sweet and a fairly mellow off shore breeze, so we all suit up and rush in. Over the next few hours the swell shapes up a little and the tide comes in slightly but still not enough to give this great break its pumping shape! Disapointed to say the least we all trudged back to the car and thought about lunch.
Ohh how macdonalds becomes part of your stable diet when on the road!

Well after our feed we decided to jump back in the car and try our luck with a beach break as for now the wind was a little seedy in direction and we were sure the swell would have been ok! But too our disbelieve we were greeted with 1ft onshore slop! Not the most favourable conditions to anyone wanting to be at a beach unless ofcourse your the type that goes down to hang out in the heat!